I have researched my characters and the periods in detail, using various sources. I have looked at magazines from the late 70s, internet pages and blogs, library books, DVDs and fictional books. These sources of information not only expanded my knowledge of each era concerned but influenced my designs.
The use of the Vogue magazine from the time allowed me to see through the eyes of women in the late 70s, what they aspired to look like and wear. I got few design inspirations from there, namely the suit designs and dresses for the Top Girls and aspiring Top Girls.
Internet pages and Blogs can make it hard to find reliable information. I looked into modern research; designs inspired by the 80s, although this was interesting it also informed me badly on the 80s style, taking some of the designs literally and translating them onto my character designs.
Library books, DVDs and fictional books however opened my eyes to the people. The DVDs such as 'Pope Joan' and 'The Piano' helped me better understand the costumes for both Isabella and the Pope. The fictional book, 'The Curious Incident' helped me understand why the character Angie says what she says and how best to design for her through this knowledge.
On reflection I find my research should be accessed through the factual sources, taking inspiration from modern designs can just confuse the overall outcome.
About Me
- Zoe Brakes
- Costume and Performance Design Arts University College Bournemouth
Tuesday, 10 May 2011
Saturday, 7 May 2011
Contextual Research
Pope Joan by Bernd Eichinger, this film allowed me to understand the character more and aided me in the designing of the costume.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPjzAgrMsfY
Another film that aided me in the costume design was The Piano by Jane Campion. This film gave a clear view of the Victorian dress for the character Isabella Bird.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLpzo_nwZpE
A book that helped me understand the autistic character Angie was the Curious Incident of the dog in the night-time by Mark Haddon. The book was written by a young autistic boy so allowed me to understand her character a little more and why she is friends with someone younger than her and has dark thoughts about killing Joyce.
Friday, 6 May 2011
Tutorial with Will
Today I had a Tutorial with Will, we discussed where I was with the project and where to go from there.
We talked about the characters and what part of their life they would be viewed at in the play. For the mythical characters such as Gret and Griselda they could appear as they do in the story or panting as it is a fixed moment in the play, but the other characters mention their deaths, so it is a question as whether to display them in their prime or the state they would appear as they were last known.
Another question raised was what they would be wearing, would Pope Joan for instance be wearing her full regalia and with Lady Nijo?
We discussed the idea that the restaurant scene is almost like the painting of the last supper, if we were to display it in the way past productions have.
I had to get in contact with my director Kirstie to find out her thoughts on the play as she is very experienced with Top Girls having done it now four times, this would be a great help to me, to be able to receive good feedback and knowledge. I had also to find out when she would like it set, whether it would remain in the 80's or whether she wanted to change it?
I left the tutorial with new ideas and concepts building, I was to think over the set design and how the scene changes would occur which I found most difficult as they re quick scene changes and vast with the limited equipment and facilities in the studio theatre as opposed to a public theatre.
I was advised to look at films such as 'Pope Joan' and The piano' to aid my design and understanding.
We talked about the characters and what part of their life they would be viewed at in the play. For the mythical characters such as Gret and Griselda they could appear as they do in the story or panting as it is a fixed moment in the play, but the other characters mention their deaths, so it is a question as whether to display them in their prime or the state they would appear as they were last known.
Another question raised was what they would be wearing, would Pope Joan for instance be wearing her full regalia and with Lady Nijo?
We discussed the idea that the restaurant scene is almost like the painting of the last supper, if we were to display it in the way past productions have.
I had to get in contact with my director Kirstie to find out her thoughts on the play as she is very experienced with Top Girls having done it now four times, this would be a great help to me, to be able to receive good feedback and knowledge. I had also to find out when she would like it set, whether it would remain in the 80's or whether she wanted to change it?
I left the tutorial with new ideas and concepts building, I was to think over the set design and how the scene changes would occur which I found most difficult as they re quick scene changes and vast with the limited equipment and facilities in the studio theatre as opposed to a public theatre.
I was advised to look at films such as 'Pope Joan' and The piano' to aid my design and understanding.
Tuesday, 3 May 2011
Research into the late 70's
To research the 1970's I bought myself the 1979 August addition of the Vogue magazine. From this I could learn of the high fashion of the time, and get a feel for the era through their advertisements and the articles. Simply advertising cigarettes makes the magazine dated.
This was the time when women were gaining more rights, yet the magazine has elements of the traditional attitude quoting;
'Behind every beautiful woman there is a man.'
The magazine also includes an article on Margaret Thatcher. The article describes the disappointment at meeting her, describing the event as below par;
' The first meeting between a female head of state and a female short- to- be head of Government ought to have been a giant step for womankind, acclaimed by tumultuous crowds. But only a few mystified camera- girt Japanese were there to record the great moment.'
This article is written by a man as it seems quite alot of the magazine is. Nowadays womens magazines are primarily run by women writing gossip and fashion columns, demonstrating the vast difference between times.
The magazine overall is concentrating on high fashion and allows me to see what the women in the play aspire to look like, as with magazines today where young girls want to look like the models in magazines, this would have been the case then, so affects my designs and the way the characters dress and act. Vogue magazines are known for their fashion forecasting so some of the clothing reflects the shoulder pad design that became fashionable in the mid to late 80's, although not to the extreme that it develops into.
This magazine supplied inspiration for most of my characters, through design but also helped me understand the news and issues of the time through the writing.
This was the time when women were gaining more rights, yet the magazine has elements of the traditional attitude quoting;
'Behind every beautiful woman there is a man.'
The magazine also includes an article on Margaret Thatcher. The article describes the disappointment at meeting her, describing the event as below par;
' The first meeting between a female head of state and a female short- to- be head of Government ought to have been a giant step for womankind, acclaimed by tumultuous crowds. But only a few mystified camera- girt Japanese were there to record the great moment.'
This article is written by a man as it seems quite alot of the magazine is. Nowadays womens magazines are primarily run by women writing gossip and fashion columns, demonstrating the vast difference between times.
The magazine overall is concentrating on high fashion and allows me to see what the women in the play aspire to look like, as with magazines today where young girls want to look like the models in magazines, this would have been the case then, so affects my designs and the way the characters dress and act. Vogue magazines are known for their fashion forecasting so some of the clothing reflects the shoulder pad design that became fashionable in the mid to late 80's, although not to the extreme that it develops into.
This magazine supplied inspiration for most of my characters, through design but also helped me understand the news and issues of the time through the writing.
Monday, 2 May 2011
Internet Research....the 80's
The Modern Research
I looked into modern fashion that is influenced by the eighties; dungarees, leather jackets and converse trainers that have reappeared in today's fashion work for my designs. I felt looking at this research helped me understand the fit of the clothes and added a modern twist to my designs.
Photo credit: July/August 2009 issue of Numero Tokyo
These modern images inspired by the 80's have influenced my designs for both Kit and Angie. Taking the playful colours, and young mix of both casual trainers and pretty dresses, I feel it best represents their characters. Incorporating the tomboy aspect I have pictured when reading the script, but also capturing the girlie and experimental side of a teenager.
Photographer: Jo Ben. photographer's assistant: Anthony Lycett. stylist: Alice Wilby. hair and make-up: Sarah Jagger. model: Emica @ Storm. All fasion from www.oli.co.uk except American Apparel
Again these Modern images have realised the characters personalities through a laid back girlie fashion. I love the slight teenager pose in the photos communicating the attitude to match the clothes.
1980's Research
These next images are collected from a catalogue from the 1980's, displaying women's fashion of the time. These images are my main inspiration for Marlene, Win and Nell; being the Top Girls career women. The suits are how I see their work wear for the office scenes; remaining fashionable but professional.
These images are again from the eighties but showing younger models. They again display the younger casual fashion but include a quirky aspect which I would like to include in my designs.
I feel my internet research was successful in gathering inspiration for my designs, it not only informed me of fashionable cuts but revealed quirky additions to a costume that best represent the characters. Through doing this research I have a greater understanding of the fashions for each age group of the time. I really like the fashion photography with 80's influence, I like the way the models are styled as it is how I imagined Kit and Angie to look as I read the script; the carefree childlike style that incorporates experimental fashions, pairing casual with dresses.
Sunday, 1 May 2011
Concept
My concept is the Oppression of women, and the need to escape.
Throughout the 80s women fought to achieve status, even when reaching this their rights never matched that of a man's. My concept shows the optimism of Women in politics through Marlene's excitement for the 80s; when Margaret Thatcher became Prime Minister, women believed things would change, the Irony is that she did nothing for women. Therefore my concept also shows pessimism in the form of Joyce; who believes nothing will change.
My concept mood board is taken from the painting 'Dulle Griet', this painting shows pain and war setting the tone and colour scheme for my Oppression theme.
My aim is to reflect the colour scheme in costume, set and lighting. The lighter tones symbolise the higher status women, the 'Top Girls'. The darker colours represent the lower status making them stand out.
Sections of my mood board reflect escapism the need to have a new life...
I looked also at images communicating Feminism, a huge theme running through the play...
My mood board also shows the need to escape the oppression and the dark effect the oppression has on women.
Reflection so far....
So far I have read the script numerous times and created a mood board to reflect my concept, and feelings towards the play. I have looked at the characters and created a character analysis for each, looking into what they say, their stage direction and their story to enable me to design for them.
This is a good starting point for the project, it is vital to understand what the character is like so I can create a fitting costume. I have learnt from this process to always begin this way, and support it with a script breakdown so that no required costume or prop is missed out.
This is a good starting point for the project, it is vital to understand what the character is like so I can create a fitting costume. I have learnt from this process to always begin this way, and support it with a script breakdown so that no required costume or prop is missed out.
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